Our Nation Relies upon On This Huge Swamp That Has Principally Been Forgotten


Within the swampy coronary heart of coastal Louisiana, greater than a century of abuse and neglect threaten a nationwide treasure: the Atchafalaya Basin, the nation’s largest cypress swamp.

The greater than 800,000 acres of forests, lakes and bayous comprise hard-to-access wilderness and bushes which are over 1,000 years previous. A number of the world’s nice migratory fowl populations cease right here on their journey throughout continents, and its lush swamplands nurture an unparalleled range of animal and aquatic life, from threatened species like sturgeon and paddlefish to Louisiana’s world-famous crawfish.

An indication warns of a gasoline pipeline in Bayou Sorrel. Pipelines for oil, gasoline and chemical merchandise crisscross southern Louisiana, laid in dredged-out canals which have blocked pure water flows by way of the Atchafalaya Basin.

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The world additionally has one other plentiful useful resource: oil and gasoline. Drilling rigs and tons of of miles of pipelines mark the area, pumping out black gold that has lengthy enriched Atchafalaya landowners. The oil business has constructed an unlimited community of canals and “spoil banks,” or excavated piles of earth that rise 10 toes or extra and act as earthen dams blocking the pure move of water that drains south into the Gulf, an issue the oil and gasoline business, landowners and state businesses have been reluctant to deal with.

Scientists say these spoil banks are turning huge areas of the basin into stagnant swimming pools of swamp water which are strangling the cypress forests and damaging the fisheries. With out this pure move, large tracts of the Atchafalaya Basin may very well be left unrecognizable.

Consultants say backfilling the canals, or offering extra gaps within the spoil banks to let extra water move by way of, is important to make the basin extra sustainable. A heated debate is underway between environmentalists and the landowners and oil firms who’re resisting efforts to change the banks — and imperiling the others who depend on the ecosystem.

An oil well, pipelines and storage tanks sit in the middle of the swamp.
An oil properly, pipelines and storage tanks sit in the course of the swamp.

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“What’s occurring within the basin is legal,” says Dean Wilson, head of the Atchafalaya Basinkeeper, a member group that goals to guard the swamp. “The landowners don’t need to do away with the spoil banks which are inflicting the issue. They need to do away with the fishermen.”

And there’s one other downside that extends past the basin: Rising volumes of sediment and silt from farms and concrete runoff are pouring into the Mississippi River upstream and are creating harmful flooding potential for New Orleans and different communities.

That threat worries veteran marine scientist Ivor van Heerden, who has spent a lot of his profession learning flooding and coastal safety points in Louisiana and has labored with native environmental teams just like the Basinkeeper to review restoration initiatives alongside the sediment-choked swamps of the Atchafalaya.

“It’s a ticking time bomb that nobody is addressing,” he mentioned.

Change Is Fixed

Sediment has constructed up the Atchafalaya ever since engineers altered and elevated the move of the Mississippi River and the Crimson River into the area beginning within the mid-1800s. The Military Corps of Engineers has been combating floods ever since historic Mississippi River flooding throughout 27,000 sq. miles of the nation’s midsection and South in 1927, essentially the most damaging flood in U.S. historical past. Congress handed the Flood Management Act of 1928, which licensed the Corps to assemble the most important system of levees and flood management measures on the planet.

Within the 1960s, the Military Corps constructed the Outdated River Management Construction, an enormous sequence of flood management gates that regulates Mississippi River flows into the Atchafalaya River. Situated lower than 80 miles north of Baton Rouge, the ORCS is the supply of the Atchafalaya, which streams south on its 137-mile journey to the Gulf, roughly 130 miles west of the Mississippi River Delta.

Immediately, relying on flood circumstances, just a little greater than 1 / 4 of the Mississippi River now pours into the Atchafalaya River, making it a vital floodway for southern Louisiana. The Atchafalaya River carries a sediment load of about 88 million tons every year, most all of it from the Mississippi River. The Atchafalaya is the nation’s fifth largest river when it comes to discharge, and it carries a lot sand and sediment that it’s nonetheless constructing land alongside the Louisiana coast.

Atchafalaya environmental, enterprise and political leaders have complained about rising environmental and flooding threats for many years, however solely not too long ago have their complaints attracted statewide consideration. In December 2020, Louisiana Gov. John Bel Edwards created a process drive to deal with the long-ignored dangers, which have been exacerbated by local weather change.

“The basin’s stressors will not be solely harming water high quality and the setting but additionally threatening the capability of the basin to hold floodwaters from the Mississippi and the Crimson Rivers safely and successfully,” Edwards famous when he introduced the formation of the duty drive. “The basin is the nation’s largest river-basin swamp with a wealthy ecology, and it’s previous time that it receives extra centered consideration right here in Louisiana and nationally.”

A series of file photos show the second-ever opening of the Morganza Spillway in 2011 to help control major Mississippi River flooding that spring. Top left: Workers with the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers prepare to open a bay on the structure, which will allow water from the Mississippi River to divert into the Atchafalaya Basin. Top right: Workers top a levee with sandbags near the Mississippi River. Bottom left: Buildings outside of levee protection take on floodwater in Morgan City, Louisiana, on May 12, 2011, two days before the spillway was opened. Bottom right: Water diverted from the Mississippi River spills through a bay in the Morganza Spillway on May 14, 2011. A steel, 10-ton floodgate was slowly raised for the first time since 1973, unleashing a torrent of water from the Mississippi River, away from heavily populated areas downstream.
A sequence of file photographs present the second-ever opening of the Morganza Spillway in 2011 to assist management main Mississippi River flooding that spring. Prime left: Employees with the U.S. Military Corps of Engineers put together to open a bay on the construction, which can enable water from the Mississippi River to divert into the Atchafalaya Basin. Prime proper: Employees prime a levee with sandbags close to the Mississippi River. Backside left: Buildings exterior of levee safety tackle floodwater in Morgan Metropolis, Louisiana, on Could 12, 2011, two days earlier than the spillway was opened. Backside proper: Water diverted from the Mississippi River spills by way of a bay within the Morganza Spillway on Could 14, 2011. A metal, 10-ton floodgate was slowly raised for the primary time since 1973, unleashing a torrent of water from the Mississippi River, away from closely populated areas downstream.

Main floods in 1973 and 2011 almost overwhelmed the ORCS, which the Military Corps expanded and beefed up with extra flood management measures. Hydrologists say the persevering with buildup of sediment within the basin threatens its means to soak up rising Mississippi River floodwaters. That, specialists say, may threaten flooding alongside the Mississippi from the massively necessary chemical business hall close to Baton Rouge all the best way to the critically necessary delivery port of New Orleans.

Whereas Military Corps officers say they’re learning the rising downside, members of the state’s Atchafalaya process drive say they don’t have time for extra research. Final 12 months the group of almost two dozen native politicians, scientists, landowners, fishermen and environmentalists met a half-dozen occasions and got here up with a listing of common suggestions, regardless of surprising obstacles within the type of the lethal COVID-19 pandemic and one other damaging season of storms.

These included Hurricane Ida, which hit Louisiana in late August and almost made a beeline for the Atchafalaya Basin. The Class four storm mercifully veered east on the final second, but it surely killed greater than 25 folks throughout rural areas of the state and destroyed over 100 sq. miles of Barataria marshland earlier than it roared northeast, inflicting dozens extra deaths and billions of {dollars} of harm throughout the nation.

Ida put an exclamation level on the duty drive’s mission, as scientists say local weather change goes to make storms and flooding a lot worse in coming years. On the finish of 2020, the group urged the state to take a extra holistic method to fixing the rising environmental issues within the basin, specializing in environmental impacts that normally play second fiddle to navigation and flood management points. It was the primary time a state-sponsored entity referred to as for restoring the north-south move of swamp water and conserving deep-water habitats important to the ecological well being of the area.

This new method didn’t sit properly with massive landowners apprehensive that elevated water move may give business fishermen extra entry to what they thought-about their personal lands. In the meantime, environmental teams continued to complain that state and federal businesses had been nonetheless doing little about monitoring the worsening high quality of swamp water bottled up by oil and gasoline canals and spoil banks.

“The Atchafalaya is an advanced place,” says Brian Lezina, chief of planning for the Coastal Safety and Restoration Authority, which sponsored the duty drive conferences. “Huge issues require large options. We want extra federal cash to get issues executed right here.”

A Fishing Trade On The Edge

Jody Meche, center, a crawfisherman and member of the Atchafalaya task force put together by Gov. John Bel Edwards, sells his catch for the day at Huey's Seafood in Bayou Sorrel on April 19. The task force is meant to address growing flooding risks and environmental impacts on the Atchafalaya Basin.
Jody Meche, middle, a crawfisherman and member of the Atchafalaya process drive put collectively by Gov. John Bel Edwards, sells his catch for the day at Huey’s Seafood in Bayou Sorrel on April 19. The duty drive is supposed to deal with rising flooding dangers and environmental impacts on the Atchafalaya Basin.

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Business fisherman Jody Meche says the danger isn’t simply flooding — elevated sedimentation and poor water high quality may devastate his business. As president of the Louisiana Crawfish Producers Affiliation West, Meche says he’s watched a gradual decline within the fishery since he began crawfishing as a child together with his dad and grandfather. Although the overwhelming majority of Louisiana crawfish at the moment are farm-raised, Meche has witnessed a gradual decline within the well being of the wild fishery that has sustained his household for generations.

Crawfishing within the basin together with his 25-year-old son Bryce final summer season, their traps pulled in exactly sufficient to cowl gasoline for the day. Meche is a member of the governor’s process drive and says water high quality has deteriorated since oil and gasoline pipeline canals had been constructed, blocking the pure move of water that nourishes the crawfish within the swampy waters.

“Folks come right here from all around the world to eat our crawfish,” Meche mentioned as he pulled up a entice with a dozen of the giant-clawed crustaceans crawling within the backside. Years in the past, he mentioned, he would pull in 600 kilos of crawfish a day. Now he’s fortunate to get half that. Scientists say diminished water move attributable to spoil banks and the buildup of sediment can scale back the extent of oxygen crawfish rely upon to breed and thrive. And because the water high quality will get worse, Meche is apprehensive he should cease fishing altogether.

Meche's daily catch is less than half of what it once was due to declining water quality in the basin.
Meche’s day by day catch is lower than half of what it as soon as was because of declining water high quality within the basin.

Bryan Tarnowski for HuffPost

“When crawfish will not be doing good, the whole lot else just isn’t going good,” mentioned Meche. “They’re like canaries in a mine shaft.”

The basin landowners who’ve profited from its oil and gasoline operations reject the declare that the business has wrecked the Atchafalaya. Rudy Sparks, vp of land for Williams Inc., which holds 85,000 acres of land within the space, blames Military Corps flood management initiatives and authorities rules for upending the pure state of the world.

The corporate has been lively within the space since founder Frank Williams moved to Louisiana within the 1870s and acquired up swampland that finally turned a number of the largest logging operations within the nation. Ultimately, Sparks says, the oil and gasoline business supplanted logging income for his firm till current a long time, when oil exploration largely moved offshore and native oil drilling operations dropped dramatically.

Sparks says income from the oil and timber days are largely executed. He agrees there have been adverse modifications in water high quality. However not like some fishermen and environmental teams that blame the oil business, Sparks says Military Corps initiatives — primarily designed to deal with navigation and flooding considerations — are principally answerable for destroying water move within the basin.

Rudy Sparks, pictured at the land office of Williams Inc. in Patterson, Louisiana, is vice president of land at the company. Williams owns tens of thousands of acres of land in the Atchafalaya Basin and leases large portions of it to oil and gas companies.
Rudy Sparks, pictured on the land workplace of Williams Inc. in Patterson, Louisiana, is vp of land on the firm. Williams owns tens of 1000’s of acres of land within the Atchafalaya Basin and leases massive parts of it to grease and gasoline firms.

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“It’s an advanced mess. The entire forest and marsh is in extreme decline,” Sparks mentioned. “The Military Corps has executed extra to speed up the decline of the basin than anybody else.”

Military Corps officers admit there are sedimentation issues within the basin, however say they’re learning methods to enhance the scenario. Jim Lewis, director of the Military Corps’ Mississippi River Science and Know-how Workplace, has intensive expertise learning the impacts of sediment within the Atchafalaya Basin. Lewis revealed a 2018 report that confirmed over the following 50 years, sedimentation within the Atchafalaya River may increase water ranges by Three toes over ranges recorded within the 2011 flood occasion. That flood pressured the Military Corps to open a part of the emergency Morganza Spillway for simply the second time, releasing a deluge of water from the Mississippi River that threatened Atchafalaya communities downstream.

Lewis says the Atchafalaya is going through twin risks from local weather change: rising waters within the Gulf of Mexico and better Mississippi River flows coming from the north. The Corps has not evaluated how miles of oil canals and spoil banks within the basin have impacted water high quality, however Lewis says they “need to study extra.”

Some scientists say there’s good motive to consider {that a} nightmare may come true. Louisiana State College professor and hydrology knowledgeable Yi-Jun Xu has studied sediment flows within the area over the previous 20 years, and warns that rising ranges of sediment are elevating river water to harmful ranges and dramatically decreasing the basin’s means to soak up floodwater.

Louisiana State University professor Yi-Jun Xu, pictured in his office in Baton Rouge on April 19, is an expert on Atchafalaya Basin water flows. He worries what would happen if massive sediment buildups in the Mississippi River were dislodged by a major hurricane.
Louisiana State College professor Yi-Jun Xu, pictured in his workplace in Baton Rouge on April 19, is an knowledgeable on Atchafalaya Basin water flows. He worries what would occur if huge sediment buildups within the Mississippi River had been dislodged by a significant hurricane.

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Xu says his primary concern is a possible catastrophe on the ORCS, which he believes is the weakest level within the Corps’ elaborate thousand-mile flood management system. If it had been ever overtopped and considerably broken, Xu thinks the Mississippi River may take a shorter course straight down the Atchafalaya River to the Gulf, slicing off the move of Mississippi River water to petrochemical vegetation and communities all the best way to New Orleans that rely upon it for his or her survival.

A 1980 paper from LSU engineering professor Raphael Kazmann and economics professor David Johnson examined the implications of the failure of that construction and estimated it could trigger as much as $four billion in damages in 1977 {dollars}, doubtless an enormous underestimate because the research didn’t bear in mind the prices of rebuilding ingesting water infrastructure, in addition to the relocation of residents impacted by the potential catastrophe.

The authors mentioned it’s not a query of if, however when. “Simply when it will happen can’t be predicted: It may occur subsequent 12 months, throughout the subsequent decade, someday within the subsequent 30 or 40 years,” they wrote in 1980. “However the remaining end result is solely a matter of time and it is just prudent to organize for it.”

Assist From Congress, At Final?

In January, Congress eventually stepped as much as the plate, authorizing $2.7 billion for Louisiana’s coastal restoration and flood safety initiatives as a part of federal hurricane reduction and infrastructure payments. State officers say they plan to direct no less than $78 million to basin flooding and water high quality initiatives. However many locals say the state must kick in additional of its personal cash too. At the moment, Louisiana doesn’t embrace the Atchafalaya Basin in its $50 billion coastal restoration plan, and it spends solely about $6 million a 12 months on initiatives within the area. Environmentalists and landowners alike say that’s a drop within the bucket in comparison with what’s wanted to guard the pure assets of the world.

However the Basinkeeper group argues more cash gained’t resolve the issue if modifications aren’t made in the way it’s spent. Wilson’s small group has performed an outsize position in alerting the world to damaging environmental actions in Louisiana’s secretive swamplands. He’s taken on powers large and small, together with Walmart, Residence Depot and Lowe’s over their buy of business mulch logged from 1000’s of acres of majestic cypress forests, a apply that Wilson performed a job in stopping a decade in the past. He says state funding for basin flood management initiatives has been detrimental to the setting and has benefited particular curiosity teams like landowners and the oil business.

Dean Wilson, head of the Atchafalaya Basinkeeper, guides his boat through human-made canals in the basin.
Dean Wilson, head of the Atchafalaya Basinkeeper, guides his boat by way of human-made canals within the basin.

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Lately, Wilson has taken on the area’s largest landowners and fossil gas firms, in addition to state businesses and the Military Corps, which he additionally blames for a lot of the environmental decline within the area. The Basinkeeper has labored intently with environmental attorneys to battle development of huge pure gasoline pipelines and pry info out of company information that may shine a lightweight on the degradation of the basin. In 2018, the Basinkeeper filed go well with in an unsuccessful effort to cease the controversial Bayou Bridge oil pipeline that now cuts by way of the Atchafalaya swamp, pumping as much as tons of of 1000’s of barrels of Texas crude day by day to Louisiana refineries. At the moment, with the assistance of the Tulane Environmental Legislation Clinic, the Basinkeeper is suing the Military Corps beneath the Freedom of Info Act to unearth information associated to water high quality points.

Wilson is very upset his group was not included on the Atchafalaya process drive, although he helps its suggestions to concentrate on environmental points. However ultimately, he worries little will likely be executed to enhance water high quality. His group has complained about flood management initiatives sponsored by the Military Corps, together with a levee within the basin’s Coon Entice space that failed final 12 months and he says allowed a major quantity of silt-laden river water to pour into the swamps.

Cattle roam the levees surrounding the Atchafalaya Basin.
Cattle roam the levees surrounding the Atchafalaya Basin.

Bryan Tarnowski for HuffPost

The Basinkeeper can also be vital of one other main environmental group lively within the area, The Nature Conservancy, the world’s largest conservation NGO with $1.2 billion in complete income and assist in 2020. The nonprofit operates a 5,300-acre protect within the Atchafalaya and is learning methods to enhance water high quality and the setting within the area. Earlier this month, the group made public that it had bought an extra 3,700 acres from Dow Chemical Co. to spice up its conservation program within the space. The Conservancy has acquired assist for its basin work from quite a lot of nonprofit, state and company funders, together with a $1.6 million grant from Shell Pipeline Co. and monetary assist from Enterprise Merchandise, a gasoline pipeline operator within the basin.

Conservancy officers say a significant focus is bettering water move within the East Grand Lake space, which has suffered from elevated sedimentation and water high quality issues through the years. The mission has been opposed by environmentalists, native residents and fishermen who fear it can end result within the introduction of extra silt- and sediment-laden water into the swamps that may add extra land, which is usually supported by landowners and oil and gasoline business pursuits.

Sediment from the Atchafalaya River flows into Bayou Sorrel from a distributary of the river.
Sediment from the Atchafalaya River flows into Bayou Sorrel from a distributary of the river.

Bryan Tarnowski for HuffPost

The Conservancy’s scientists push again on this criticism, saying they’re actively monitoring the world to enhance the setting. Bryan Piazza, the Conservancy’s director of freshwater and marine science in Louisiana, says the group is working as an “trustworthy dealer” with all Atchafalaya pursuits to enhance water high quality within the area regardless of opposition from fishermen and the Basinkeeper. “If we are able to get the water flowing once more it can profit everybody,” Piazza mentioned. The controversial East Grand Lake mission was paused by the state over the previous 12 months, however officers say they’re now working with the Military Corps to get a allow authorised.

The Conservancy’s state director, Karen Gautreaux, who sits on the governor’s process drive and previously labored for the state, agrees water high quality is a rising downside within the basin. She argues that working with different pursuits, together with the oil and gasoline business, is vital to discovering options to advanced environmental points. “Being a conservationist and a landowner will not be mutually unique,” she mentioned.

However Wilson and fishermen like Meche who’ve lived and labored within the Atchafalaya for many years, argue that initiatives like East Grand Lake are working towards the most effective pursuits of the swamp. Van Heerden, the scientist who has labored with the Basinkeeper, says his evaluation reveals the proposed mission on Conservancy land will find yourself “making issues worse.” And in Wilson’s view, the oil business and landowners are getting what they need.

“They’re simply filling within the swamp,” mentioned Wilson.

Whereas just about everybody agrees that water high quality is an issue within the Atchafalaya, main landowners like Williams Inc.’s Sparks are “uncomfortable” with state process drive suggestions they are saying would create deeper water move in some areas and promote public fishing entry to their personal lands, one thing fishing teams deny. However Sparks says if nothing is finished to battle growing sedimentation within the basin, river bottoms and water ranges will preserve rising, together with within the grandest river of all, the Mississippi.

The LSU Center for River Studies in Baton Rouge is home of the Lower Mississippi River Physical Model, a collaboration with the Coastal Protection and Restoration Authority. The model helps run sediment and flood projection experiments to better understand the effects of altering the delta and climate change.
The LSU Heart for River Research in Baton Rouge is residence of the Decrease Mississippi River Bodily Mannequin, a collaboration with the Coastal Safety and Restoration Authority. The mannequin helps run sediment and flood projection experiments to raised perceive the consequences of altering the delta and local weather change.

Bryan Tarnowski for HuffPost

Altering Course?

Many specialists agree the Mississippi River is overdue to vary course, because it has naturally executed over eons of time. Scientists say it doesn’t matter what we do to attempt to comprise the Mississippi, it can all the time battle to vary its path as sediment builds up. The good nonfiction author John McPhee, who wrote extensively concerning the area, described the Mississippi River’s altering historical past as “a pianist taking part in with one hand — regularly and radically altering course, surging over the left or the precise financial institution to go off in new instructions.”

What considerations Xu and others much more is that local weather change and rising sedimentation of the riverbeds is creating an ideal storm that will likely be exhausting to cease. Xu worries {that a} main hurricane the scale of Hurricane Katrina or Harvey will hit the Mississippi space northwest of New Orleans.

Xu and his graduate students at LSU have collected water samples from the Atchafalaya Basin and other rivers.
Xu and his graduate college students at LSU have collected water samples from the Atchafalaya Basin and different rivers.

Bryan Tarnowski for HuffPost

That, he says, may dislodge a 500 million-ton slug of built-up river sediment, creating floodwaters that might overwhelm the ORCS. That might enable the river to hunt a path down the Atchafalaya, destroying cities, levees and swamplands in its raging rampage to the Gulf. “We’re underestimating the seriousness of the scenario,” Xu says. “Many individuals within the Corps are engineers who suppose an engineering method can preserve this from taking place … however we are able to’t battle that huge quantity of sediment shifting in such a brief time frame.”

Military Corps specialists disagree with these dire predictions. Whereas they acknowledge that local weather change is driving elevated rainfall and extra highly effective storms within the space, they are saying there have been main enhancements made within the ORCS and the levee system because it was considerably broken in a significant 1973 flood. The Corps continues to intently monitor and mannequin flooding emergencies within the area, and officers are assured they will deal with no matter threats Mom Nature throws at them.

A New Actuality

John Day, an LSU emeritus professor of marine sciences, says it’s doubtless the Mississippi will change course, although he’s undecided the place. Each Day and different scientists say it’s time to transition our considering from restoring nature to adapting to it, which would require defending sure communities over others.

“We have to shield the infrastructure of our fisheries,” mentioned Day.

That’s one thing many individuals within the Atchafalaya Basin would assist. Henderson Mayor Sherbin Collette grew up in a household of fishermen. He’s been mayor of Henderson for 17 years and has helped make the small city affluent because the “Gateway to the Atchafalaya,” which incorporates a dinosaur park and on line casino that draws guests off busy I-10. Extra theme parks are being deliberate, and the city’s checking account is $Three million within the inexperienced, the mayor says. However he worries that won’t final for lengthy as the specter of flooding will increase.

“I bear in mind when the Atchafalaya Basin was a gem,” he mentioned. “Now it’s stuffed with stagnant water and stinks to excessive heaven. … They ruined the basin due to oil.”

However it’s the growing storms and hurricanes that fear him essentially the most. Collette says Henderson has been fortunate over the previous few years, however that luck gained’t all the time maintain. “Two-thirds of the U.S. drains down right here,” he mentioned. “When you suppose it’s unhealthy now, simply wait.”

One of many ironies of the Atchafalaya Basin is that some individuals who stay close to the delta on the Gulf could also be safer from flooding than others who stay farther away from the coast. That’s as a result of the sediment-laden Atchafalaya River is constructing land within the delta, which is rising a couple of sq. mile per 12 months on common.

LSU’s Robert Twilley, a veteran coastal researcher and the longtime director of the Louisiana Sea Grant program till final 12 months, has spent a lot of his profession researching the coastal zone of the Atchafalaya Basin. He says the delta is of particular curiosity to researchers world wide as a result of it’s constructing land within the face of rising seas, which Twilley expects to proceed for many years barring a catastrophic flooding occasion.

Ultimately, although, rising seas will overcome the sedimentation results of the river. At that time, he mentioned, “all bets are off.”

But when the Mississippi River ever does change course down the Atchafalaya, even sea stage rise can be no match for Outdated Man River, Twilley mentioned. “It will make one hell of a delta.”

Funding for this story was supplied by the Society of Environmental Journalists Speedy Response Grants, which included assist from the Hewlett Basis, the Bullitt Basis and the Walton Household Basis.



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